You turned on the washing machine, loaded the laundry, pressed Start and were sure that the washing program would start. But something went wrong. The program did not start or started, the machine filled with water and then stopped. Perhaps an error is displayed on the control panel.
What could be the reasons for such behaviour of the washing machine and how to deal with the situation - we will figure it out in this article.
If the washing machine behaves strangely and does not start washing, first of all it is worth excluding the following errors in its operation.
If a new washing machine does not start, the reason is definitely either incorrect operation or incorrect installation. Let's consider such situations in more detail.
If you have checked all possible situations from the list above, and none of them are similar to yours, alas, most likely something is broken in the machine. According to the experience of the Wash Man masters, the following malfunctions can lead to such a problem.
The inlet valve is a unit that is responsible for supplying water to the washing machine. It consists of a plastic housing that contains an electromagnetic coil and a membrane. When electricity is supplied to the coil, the membrane opens, and the machine begins to fill with water.
From the experience of the masters! In modern washing machines, the valve usually consists of two or even three sections, each of which has its own coil and membrane. Each section is responsible for filling with water at a certain stage of the program. For example, in two-section valves, one section opens when filling with water for pre-wash, the second - for the main wash, and both sections open when the machine fills with water for rinsing.
Sometimes, during long-term use of the machine, the coil burns out, which is why the membrane does not open when voltage is applied to the coil. As a result, water does not enter the machine, the washing machine does not start washing, and a water intake error is displayed.
The washing machine does not fill with water and does not start washing. The display may show a water filling error code. Depending on the brand of the machine, the errors may be as follows:
The fill valve needs to be replaced with a new one.
The door locking mechanism (UBL) ensures that the door is closed during the program. Structurally, the UBL consists of a housing in which a thermal element (tablet) and a bimetallic plate are located. Voltage is applied to the thermal tablet, which causes it to heat up, transferring heat to the plate, which bends and presses the latch. It enters the groove and the machine hatch is locked.
Unfortunately, over time, the coating of the heating element burns out and the tablet is destroyed. Less often, the bimetal loses its properties. As a result, the operation of the UBL is disrupted: the door remains unlocked, the machine "understands" this and does not start washing.
The machine does not lock the door when the program starts and does not wash. It is possible that a door closing error is displayed. Depending on the brand of the washing machine, the codes may be as follows:
The UBL mechanism cannot be restored; it is replaced with a new one.
In commutator motors, the brushes come into contact with the rotating commutator and create torque, which causes the motor shaft to rotate.
Over time, due to friction, the graphite brushes shorten and their contact with the collector deteriorates. This leads to a decrease in engine power, and users notice that the washing machine does not reach high speeds during spinning.
When the brushes are shortened to 1 cm, contact with the collector is lost, the drum stops rotating altogether, and the washing machine does not start washing.
At first, the washing machine could not reach high speeds during spinning, and then it stopped rotating the drum altogether. Washing does not start, although the door is locked, and water is poured in. Perhaps the display shows an engine error, in particular:
Also, some users note that before the machine stopped washing, the engine sparked.
Brushes are consumables and are replaced with new ones.
The control unit is the intelligent part of the washing machine. In fact, it is a microcircuit that consists of many radio elements, tracks and a processor. It is the board that receives all the data from the washing machine sensors. It also gives commands to turn on and off various units of the washing machine.
Unfortunately, boards are extremely sensitive to moisture and voltage drops. Due to such external factors, radio components on the board fail, their contacts burn or oxidize, and tracks burn out.
In a situation where the washing machine turns on but does not wash, possible faults should be looked for in the UBL circuits, water supply valve, motor, water level sensor or heating element on the board.
The machine turns on but does not wash. Perhaps the display shows an emergency code. Depending on the circuit on the board where the breakdown occurred, the control unit error may light up, as well as the lock, water inlet, pressure switch, motor and even heating element errors.
First, a visual inspection of the control module is carried out for damage. Then the electric circuits are rung. Based on the diagnostic results, defective components are replaced and oxidized or burnt contacts and tracks are cleaned and soldered. If serious damage or a processor malfunction is detected, the board is replaced completely.
The pressure switch is a unit that is responsible for determining the water level in the washing machine. This device consists of:
air chamber, housings with built-in diaphragm, coil and contacts, pressure tube that connects the body to the chamber.
When the machine fills with water, the pressure in the air chamber changes. The changes are transmitted through the tube to the sensor, contacts are closed in it, and information that the water has reached the required level is sent to the control module. It, in turn, gives the command to the control valve to stop filling with water.
If the washing machine does not start the washing cycle, a possible cause may be a broken pressure switch, which is stuck in the "full tank" position. As a rule, the malfunction is associated with a clogged air chamber, pressure tube or defective sensor contacts.
The machine does not fill with water and does not start washing. The display shows a pressure switch or water fill error. Depending on the brand of the washing machine, the following errors may occur:
The pressure switch is inspected. The clogged air chamber is cleaned, the tube is blown out. If the sensor contacts are damaged, the pressure switch is replaced with a new one.
It is the washing machine motor that makes the drum rotate. Like other units, the motor can fail. Especially if the washing machine is old or has been systematically overloaded. Here are the types of failures that occur in this unit:
breakage of stator or rotor windings; interturn short circuits of windings; defects in the collector lamellas: their delamination.
The washing machine does not start washing, the drum does not rotate. In this case:
if the stator or rotor winding breaks, or if the lamellas are defective, the motor cannot be heard at all; When there is an interturn short circuit, the motor makes a humming sound, but the drum does not rotate (or rotates only when the program is started with an empty tank), and the motor may also spark.
Additionally, the washing machine may display a motor error. Depending on the brand of the washing machine, the errors may be as follows:
Repairing the engine is not practical; it is replaced with a new one.
A tachometer (or Hall sensor) is a unit mounted on the engine rotor. It determines the speed of rotation of the shaft by analyzing the voltage generated.
Often, vibrations during operation of the washing machine cause the tacho sensor to break down: because of them, the magnet unscrews. Sometimes, the coil burns out. If the tacho sensor is damaged, the control module cannot determine the drum rotation speed, and the washing machine does not wash.
The washing machine drum does not rotate after starting the wash cycle or makes several revolutions and stops. The display may show a tachometer or motor error. Depending on the brand, the alarm code may be as follows:
The tachometer sensor is inspected. If the magnet has come loose, it is put back in place. If the coil is damaged, the sensor is replaced with a new one.
The drive belt is responsible for transmitting rotation from the motor to the drum. The rubber part can stretch and wear out over time, especially if the machine is often overloaded. In washing machines that have been idle for a long time, the belts often dry out and crack. In addition, a belt break or slip can be associated with drum play due to bearing failure.
The washing machine behaves "as usual": the LEDs are on, water is poured in and drained, the engine hums as usual. But the drum does not spin, and the wash does not start.
A stretched or torn belt is replaced with a new one. If the belt has simply come off, it is put back on the pulley. In all cases, the bearings and the crosspiece are checked. If they are found to be damaged (usually an indirect sign of this is loud noise during spinning and play in the drum), then the bearings and/or the crosspiece must be replaced.
Many modern washing machines, starting from the middle price segment, are equipped with a leak protection case. Aquastop is a microswitch and a special sensor made of foam and is located on the bottom of the washing machine. When a leak occurs, water gets into the tray, the float sensor floats up and the switch is triggered. The signal from it goes to the control module, which gives the command to drain the water. The washing machine does not respond to commands and constantly drains the water until it is removed from the tray.
Leaks can appear in the following places:
The washing machine does not respond to start and other commands from the control panel, no program works. The drain pump does not turn off. Water has appeared in the tray. In machines with a display, the Aquastop error may light up, in particular, F23 in a Bosch washing machine or EF3 in an Electrolux.
It is necessary to remove water from the tray, determine the location of the leak, and then fix it.
We discussed this topic in detail in the article “Why does the washing machine leak from the bottom?”
The heating element is responsible for heating the water in the washing machine tank. Structurally, it is a metal body with a heating coil inside. During the use of the machine, the heating element becomes covered with scale from various deposits: impurities from water, residues of detergents and even small debris such as dust, lint, threads, etc.
A heating element covered with scale has a deteriorating performance: it takes longer to heat the water to the set temperature. This leads to either the heating coil burning out or the housing itself burning out. In the latter case, a short circuit occurs.
The machine locks the door, perhaps even fills the tank with water, but does not wash further and drains the water. The display may show an emergency code for a heating element malfunction. Here are the heating errors in the most common brands:
If the heating element housing burns out, the washing machine may blow out fuses.
The heating element should be replaced with a new one.
The temperature sensor is a thermistor integrated into the heating element. The unit is responsible for determining the water temperature. If it fails, the control board does not understand whether the water is hot enough, and the wash does not start.
The washing machine locks the door, perhaps even fills with water, but the wash is interrupted almost immediately, and the water is drained. The display may show an error with the temperature sensor or heating. Here are the most common emergency codes depending on the brand of the washing machine:
At the same time, programs without heating water can proceed normally.
The temperature sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced. If the thermistor is built into the heating element, the heating element with the temperature sensor assembly is replaced.
Due to constant vibrations during operation, wires often wear out, contacts come loose and burn out in washing machines. If the machine turns on but does not wash, the signal break may occur in the water supply valve circuit, UBL, motor, pressure switch or heating element. In private homes, mice and rats often gnaw the wiring.
The machine does not start washing. It may fill with water but then drains and writes an error. Depending on where the signal is interrupted, an error may be displayed about the hatch blocking, water intake, motor, pressure switch or heating element.
It is necessary to find the place where the signal is broken for this, the circuits are rung. Then, depending on the nature of the breakdown, the wires are twisted, or the entire wire cable is replaced. The loose contacts are inserted more tightly into the connector. If the contacts are burnt or oxidized, they are cleaned and soldered. In case of extensive damage, the entire contact group is replaced.
If your washing machine turns on but the wash does not start, it is time to seek qualified help. The technicians of the mobile service "Repair City" have already repaired thousands of washing machines. We will help you with the repair too.
We promptly respond to requests and arrive at a time convenient for you: including on the day of the request. We carry out washing machine service at your home without the need to transport the washing machine to the service center. We provide a guarantee of up to 3 Months for all types of work and new spare parts. We make sure that your equipment works as it should.
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